Often, when I suggest that a client plant vines in their landscape, their initial response, devoid of any enthusiasm is, "Oh, but they appear unkempt and overgrown." While it is true that most vines are quick-growing and non-discriminatory in their nature, they do not have to overrun your landscape or be a source of frustration.

When adding vines to your plant repertoire, first consider the plant’s eventual height and spread. Sure, most vines can be pruned on a regular basis (sometimes brutally without horticultural repercussions). But how much time do you really want to spend on a ladder keeping the plant in check or from blocking a window?

The reasons for buying vines are many. Maybe there is drab structure you want to "jazz up.’’ Maybe you have a chain link fence, garage wall, or tree stump you want to camouflage. Vines can work well in these situations. Bear in mind, however, that, few vines are evergreen, and since we live in a temperate region, a flowering vine is rarely a year-round solution. More accurately however, vines can have a "softening" or "enhancing" effect on most structures or objects.

Vines can serve dutifully for screening when partnered with a supporting structure. Such structures will dictate, to some extent, what vines can be chosen due to the structure’s strength, age and current condition. For example, an old trellis or lattice support for stone or brick walls (especially old fieldstone or barn stone), consider growing climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), which does not require much effort in climbing.

The old-fashioned rambling rose, "New Dawn" graces an arbor and picket fence in a private cottage garden.

Arbors and Pergolas
Arbors and pergolas are excellent for growing and supporting various vines. On a large property they can provide an interesting visual that draws the eye and entices one farther into the landscape. In a small garden they can still offer visual elegance but also allow for more growing space since vines will grow upward.

If the arbor or pergola is in an area where you often dine or relax, it’s an added bonus if flowers hang overhead for visual enjoyment or, even better, if they have a fragrance. Honeysuckle and some of the hardy jasmines come to mind.

Onward and Upward
The homeowner or gardener does not need an elaborate structure for growing vines. A simple post within a perennial border or planting area will provide a strong, vertical line for growing any vine. The same effect can be achieved by using a more decorative trellis. If you like the heirloom look, many old trellises are turning up at flea markets, yard sales and online.

For a little whimsy, consider growing a vine along a rope, wire or chain. Just as vines may be used for softening or screening, they can also be used to highlight an architectural feature. Use vines to accentuate the edge of a deck or steps, a particular stone, the pedestal of a birdbath or even an old relic, such as a chimney pot or gargoyle.

Branches an inch or better in diameter are ideal for constructing rustic style teepees that can support vines in the midst of a vegetable plot. Try growing nasturtiums with beans or gourds; or moonflower, akebia or roses in a cottage garden. Children seem to love hideaways and would probably enjoy a rustic teepee smothered in some sort of rambling vine.

A Japanese-style pergola featuring a "moon" window and planted with Japanese wisteria provides a place of harmony and tranquility.

Vine Versatility
Vines are revered for the delightful way in which they mingle with other plants, climbing either on them or with them. You can encourage climbing hydrangeas or roses growing up a tree, or weave them through each other. Roses and clematis co-mingled is a classic combination. On occasion, as a gardener and designer I have done this very thing. I first admired this unusual combination while visiting English gardens. I’ve even seen vines planted in various sizes of containers and supported by small branches.

If you are interested in attracting birds to your home landscape, specific varieties of vines are a must because of their nectar or berries. Trumpet vine is a good example of a nectar source for attracting hummingbirds. Incorporating woody-stemmed vines in either the perennial or shrub plantings will create a nice thicket where birds can build a nest or seek refuge from predators. Besides trumpet vine, there are hardy kiwi vines, honeysuckle and various annual vines that can serve this function.

The white lattice fence is functional and decorative supporting the climbing rose, "New Blaze."

Cultural Cares
Vines are a diverse group of plants. Most are easy to grow and require little care. The most important thing is matching the plant to its site, taking into consideration proper sunlight. Make certain that the selected vine gets all the sun or shade that it needs. Any reference to "full sun" indicates six full hours or more of direct sun each day. "Part shade" indicates less than the six hours and "full shade" means no direct sun at all.

As a whole, vines are vigorous growers and non-demanding of soil types. They do best, however, in an organically amended soil, especially if the soil structure consists of clay and/or rock. I often include an equally balanced garden fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 upon initial planting. Once the vines have become established, apply a light layer of shredded bark mulch or compost around the plant and thereafter every other year. Fertilizing can be done once a growing season in mid to late spring.

Vines rarely require an ordinate amount of water once established unless they are growing in an exceptionally hot or windy location or during prolonged periods of drought during the season. Obvious wilting or continued browning of the leaves is a definite sign that the plants need watering.

Many vines need selective pruning to keep them healthy and in bounds. The pruning process can begin when the plants are small by pinching off stem tips to promote branching. Be sure to remove any diseased, weak or dead stems, just as you would with any other type of plant. It’s also a good practice to thin dense-growing or tangled vines periodically to allow more sun and air to reach all areas of the plant. Vines that bloom in the spring on old wood (the buds are formed the previous summer), such as akebia and hardy jasmine, should be pruned within two to three weeks after they blossom.

Some perennial vines that die back completely in autumn, such as the Dutchman’s pipe, most honeysuckles and black-eyed Susan vine will tolerate being cut down to the ground. Pruning vines that have become completely out of control rejuvenating an old vine is best done in stages over three to four years. Remove a portion the vine’s oldest stems each year, cutting them back to a foot above the ground in early spring as new growth begins.

Clematis, "Jackmanii," is a good focal point in this perennial garden.

SOME CLIMBERS FOR CONSIDERATION: Climbing roses (Rosa species) Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) Climbing honeysuckle (Lonicera species) Clematis (Clematis species) Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla) Akebia (Akebia quinata) Hardy Kiwi (Actinidia ‘Issaii’) Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) Japanese hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) Hardy jasmine (Jasminium)

Most vines are not troubled by pests and diseases. Being a horticulturist, I always suggest avoiding these potential afflictions, rather than treating them, by keeping the vines healthy in the first place (and all other plants for that matter). Give plants the amount of light and water they prefer. Don’t crowd them and don’t over-fertilize. Keep the planting areas clean by pulling weeds and removing any accumulated debris. Immediately remove any leaves, stems and flowers that appear to be diseased.

If pests like Japanese beetles become a problem, begin with the least toxic solution. Reserve chemical insecticides for the most serious problems and instead try hand-picking or hosing the affected plant with a direct spray from the nozzle. An early spring application of dormant oil sprayed over the entire plant will literally suffocate (and kill) any over-wintering viable insect egg masses.

As in any gardening, do your homework and choose a vine that’s not only appropriate for your growing conditions and your garden but also for your energy level. After all, the goal is to create an inviting and relaxing retreat, not to spend every weekend patrolling with pruning shears or carrying a sprayer of pesticide.

Richard Liberto is a landscape designer and horticulturist. Email: libertodesign@comcast.net.