In the last two decades, ornamental grasses have become popular plants for residential and commercial landscapes. Grasses have always graced the natural landscapes of the planet. Karl Foerster, a once noted German horticulturist and nurseryman, who had recognized this generas’ attributes in the 1920s, called grasses “the Hair of Mother Earth.”

Foerster was responsible for re-introducing grasses into European and American gardens soon after they fell out of vogue from Victorian gardens in favor of foundation plantings and superfluous manicured lawns.

Now ornamental grasses have arrived with more ambitious curiosity than ever — bringing sound, movement, form, texture and abiding color that often echoes the autumn hues of the immediate natural landscape. Being versatile plants, grasses serve in every garden capacity from courtyard spaces to expansive properties as specimens, border and meadow plants, screening material and water garden and container plants. A common mistake that many people make in this region is asking for “Pampas grass” (I’ve actually heard some people say Pompous grass!), which is hardy only to the southern zones 7-10. Our tri-state region is considered 5a-b. Similar grasses that are hardy in the northern climates and closely resemble pampas grass are the Miscanthus varieties and Erianthus. These two species run the gamut in size—from dwarf specimens reaching 3 feet in height, to hulking sizes of 13 feet or greater.

Japanese Hakonechloa grass takes center stage. Yarrow “Terra-cotta’’ is in the center with Iris siberica in the background.

The forms or architectural habit of ornamental grasses are variable, some growing in low hummock-shaped mounds (8"), to upright and arching such as Festuca or Blue grass and Carex. The latter species being a native grasslike plant is usually seen growing in woodlands, along stream banks or bog areas, since it prefers shade and cool, moist locations.

Strong vertical accents can be achieved by planting Calamagrostis or Feather-reed grass that “blooms” in early June and lasts through the winter, reaching a maximum height of 4 feet. Another select upright growing grass is Panicum virgatum (“Heavy Metal”), which has distinct blue-gray foliage and airy-panicle flowers that sway in the breeze, creating motion in the landscape.

A cascading form of grass is Pennisetum alopecuroides, or Fountain grass, which grows 24-30 inches and produces silver colored flowers (known as an inflorescence) that resemble bottlebrush cleaners.

Carex "Bowles Golden" is a favorite for shady spots.

COLOR
Color interest can be found in both the flowers and foliage of some grasses while actively growing, coming into their own in late summer/early autumn. Helictotrichon sempervirens or Blue Oats grass has steely blue foliage, while Phalaris arundinacea, Ribbon grass, has creamy-white variegated foliage with hints of pink during early spring and again in the fall. Miscanthus “Strictus” or Porcupine grass, has horizontal yellow bands on the leaves. Miscanthus “Silberfeil” has white and green variegated foliage and silver inflorescence.

Many of our own native and overlooked grasses provide outstanding fall color like Panicum “Haense Hermes,” Panicum “Rotstrahlbusch” and Little-blue stem grass, which turns a burnt-orange-umber color and lasts through the winter. The fall colors of these grasses echo the late-season hues of the natural landscape.

The plumes of Miscanthus "Purpurascers" appear luminous in the fall landscape.

TEXTURE
Texture is also varied within the ornamental grass genera and should not be overlooked when planning your landscape or garden. Grasses with very wide leaf blades will give a coarse texture and can be used as a background or specimen. Fine textured grasses are softer and more graceful in appearance and are often placed in front of the border or next to bold-leaved plants for contrast.

Grasses provide movement and texture in the landscape as evident by Miscanthus “Nippon.’’

CARE
Care of these versatile perennial plants is relatively maintenance-free. Grasses are drought-tolerant once established, require no pesticides, very little fertilizer, and most are deer-resistant! In the spring, cut the grasses down to 6 inches using hand pruners when the plants are young and small; electric or gas-powered trimmers can be used when the plants have matured and have become too full for the work of pruners. Dividing is not generally necessary, but if one feels he or she has to uphold the unwritten rule that “all plants have to be divided at three years,” then the ideal time to divide is in very early spring. The best method is to divide from the outside in, working towards the middle and discarding the “original” clump. You will have many new plants that can then be replanted or shared with friends and neighbors.

Pennisetum "Moudry" is a striking contrast against the winter snow.

The beauty and benefit of grasses can be a wonderful compliment to other perennials and ornamental plants. Large groupings or masses of a single species can unite areas of the garden or create a spectacular hedgerow for privacy. Individual specimens can be planted here and there adding spontaneity and excitement. The choices for grasses are many. What you can do with them is limited only to how far your imagination can stretch.

Richard A. Liberto is a landscape designer and horticulturist who has been studying and growing ornamental grasses for over 20 years.